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Publications
Petrova, P.G., Cherneva, Z. and Guedes Soares, C. (2008), “Statistical Properties of Steepness and Symmetry of Shallow Water Waves”, Maritime Industry, Ocean Engineering and Coastal Resources, 2008, Guedes Soares, C. and Kolev, P. (Eds.), Taylor & Francis Group, London, U.K., Vol. II, pp. 777-786
The geometry of wind waves propagating shoreward has been investigated by means of different steepness and asymmetry coefficients. The maximum wave steepness observed has been compared with the theoretical limit for irregular waves. The analyzed time series of water surface elevations have been collected in the Bulgarian part of the Black Sea coastal zone and refer to depths from 18m, considered deep water, to 1.3m. The statistical distributions of wave steepness conditional on the local water depth by means of the spectral parameter ùh have been approximated with existing theoretical models. The dependence of the wave period statistics on depth was also shown.
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