Publications

Cherneva, Z., Petrova, P.G., Andreeva, N. and Guedes Soares, C. (2005), “Probability Distributions of Peaks, Troughs and Heights of Wind Waves Measured in the Black Sea Coastal Zone”, Coastal Engineering, Vol. 52, Issue 7, pp. 599-615

The present paper examines the adequacy of different probability density functions to describe the peaks, troughs and peak-to-trough excursions of wind waves measured in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea. For that purpose various theories for non-Gaussian random process are applied. Some theories depend on the mean, variance and coefficient of skewness (Y3) of the process. Others also take the coefficient of coefficient of kurtosis (Y4) into consideration. The third order non-linear interactions increase the frequency of occurrence of large wave heights more than predicted by the linear and second order theories. The experimental data analyzed was gathered in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea with depth decreasing from 18m to 1.3m. The measurements were carried out simultaneously for 11 points with time series of 20min duration. The coefficient of skewness and kurtosis in those time series are expressed as a function of depth and the spectral peak frequency. Analogous dependencies on depth of other parameters are also found.

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