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Publications
Rusu, E., Matulea, I. and Rusu, L. (2004), "Linear e Non Linear Models to Assess the Wave Induce Currents in the Nearshore", Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Marine Science and Technology (BlackSea´04), 7-9 October, Varna, Bulgaria, Vol. I, pp. 150-158
Wind generated waves are important mainly as energy transfer agents. They first obtain the energy from the wind, then transfer it across the expanse of the ocean, and finally deliver it to the coastal zones, where this energy is the primary cause of erosion and can generate a wide variety of nearshore currents and sediment-transport patterns. In this paper are presented two models for the evaluation of the wave induced circulation in the nearshore. First, a linear model (associated with the SWAN simulations) was implemented for assessing the surf-zone conditions and the longshore currents. These estimations are based on the Longuet-Higgins equation that takes into account the oblique approach of the waves in relationship with the coastline. An approach for the longshore currents that are driven by a combination of obliquely breaking waves and longshore variations in wave heights and set up was also implemented. Some other parameters as the breaking line, the breaking characteristics and the breaking type were additionally evaluated. The linear model presents the advantage that is fast and can be used on extended areas. However the strong nonlinearities of the phenomena in the nearshore often request more sophisticated models models. Such a model is SHORECIRC which is based on the integration of the momentum balance equation. This is a quasi 3-D model accounting also for the effect of lateral mixing that is the propagation of the flow momentum in horizontal direction due to the vertical variation of the currents. The model uses REF/DIF as wave driver. Various parameterizations (especially concerning the breaking ratio) will be discussed.
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