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Publications
C. Lucas, D. Silva, C. Guedes Soares (2023), Climatic directional wave spectra in coastal sites, Coastal Engineering 180 (2023) 104255
A description of the sea wave climate through climatic directional spectra is provided in three coastal locations
comparing the deep water with the corresponding shallow water pattern. Two nested spectral wave models
WAVEWATCH III and SWAN are adopted to produce a 12-year hindcast dataset that is used to illustrate the
method proposed to determine average directional spectra that describe the spectral wave conditions along the
coast of Portugal, namely off the ports of Leix˜oes, Lisbon, and Sines. The probability of occurrence of the spectral
classes in each range of sea states is obtained and for each class, the spectral parameters, such as the significant
wave height, peak period, and peak direction, is characterized. The spectral parameters and the probability of
occurrence of the sea states are provided leading to the climatic directional spectra model. The differences between
the climatic spectra in offshore and coastal locations are identified and discussed. The study provides long
term information on the sea states, which can be used in the assessment of the operability and safety of shipping when approaching port entrances.
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