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Publications
Guedes Soares, C. (2003), “Probabilistic Models of Waves in the Coastal Zone”, Advances in Coastal Modelling, Lakan, V.C. (Ed.), Elsevier, pp. 159-187
The variability of the processes associated with wave generation governs its basic nature even when propagation is being considered. Therefore, only stochastic models provide a satisfactory description of the spatial and temporal variations of wave fields in ocean and coastal waters. The basic models that have been developed are based on the assumption that the free surface elevation of the sea surface at a point follows a Gaussian distribution. Furthermore, the ergodicity assumption is invoked to allow the same type of Gaussian models to provide a description of the variability of the process in space. The models developed describe different properties of the wave fields as required for different engineering purposes. Typically, in ocean areas, the waves are of interest to shipping as they govern ship motions and sometimes affect the choices oftheir routes. In the offshore areas both shipping and offshore platforms are of concern. Closer to the coast there is still coastal shipping, but also other coastal developments such as harbors and coastal defenses which need consideration. Furthermore, beaches and sediment transport are important issues close to the surf zone.
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