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Publications
Humeniuk, J.F., Ponce de Leon, S., Violante-Carvalho, N., Carvalho, L.M. and Guedes Soares, C. (2013), “Sheltering effect of Islands on the Pacific swell”, 6th SCACR International Short Course/Conference on Applied Coastal Research, 4-7 June, 2013, Lisbon, Portugal
The sheltering effect of coastal islands on the swell from the Pacific Ocean is studied in the present work. Wave spectra were retrieved from ERS-2 SAR (European Remote Sensing Satellite 2, Synthetic Aperture Radar) measurements in the shadow zone of the islands to investigate the swell evolution in the lee side. Comparisons were made between the swell spectra retrieved in the sheltered and non-sheltered zones from SAR and wave buoys from the National Data Buoy Center moored nearby. Several SAR images were selected from the European Space Agency (ESA) data base that satisfied a threshold minimum wind speed and particular wave propagation directions for the area. Information from a third generation wave model was used to compare the directional wave spectra with the remote sensing data employed.
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