Publications

Lucas, C. and Guedes Soares, C. (2015), “On the modelling of swell spectra”, Ocean Engineering, Vol. 108, pp. 749-759

In this study the performance of the JONSWAP and Gaussian models to describe the swell component of wave spectra are evaluated. The study is based on wave spectra from directional wave measurements made at the Maui location situated in the west coast of New Zealand and from directional wave measurements from the Bonga location situated near the coast of Africa. In a previous study it was conclude that a large number of these data is well described by two peak spectra. However some spectra only present the swell component, which is characterized by having a single peak in the low-frequencies band of the spectrum. Two methods for separating the spectral components and describing the swell spectra are used. The first method analyses the complete frequency-direction spectrum while the other uses only the frequency spectrum. To the swell spectra the fits of these two models were applied, JONSWAP and Gauss. The comparison of the spectral parameters and the fit of the models to the narrow swell spectral component, suggest the JONSWAP model as the model that better describe the swell spectrum identified in the wave spectra.

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