Publications

Rusu, L., Bernardino, M. and Guedes Soares, C. (2014), “Wind and Wave Modelling in the Black Sea”, Journal of Operational Oceanography, Vol. 7, pp. 5-20

The performance of a wind-wave modelling system applied to the Black Sea basin is evaluated in the present work. The models considered are WRF (Weather Research and Forecasting) for wind and SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) for waves. Model system simulations are carried out for a four-month period at the beginning of 2002. The accuracy of the predictions is further assessed by comparing the main modelled wind and wave parameters with both in situ and remotely sensed measurements. In statistical terms, the performance of the modelling system is in general in line with the results found by other authors in similar environments. Jansen’s formulation for the wave generation by wind, recently improved in SWAN, makes this approach the most effective in the Black Sea from the point of view of the numerical accuracy. Subsequently, the geographical variability of the models predictions is assessed together with an evaluation of the wave model results in the spectral space. The spectral evaluations, followed by analyses in the geographical space, show unusual concentrations of the wave energy that systematically appear in some coastal locations. Although it is obvious that these numerical amplifications are induced by refraction in the propagation scheme due to the high bathymetric gradients, in situ observations indicate however that the coastal areas where such situations are encountered represent in general real hot energy spots.

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