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Publications
Petrova, P.G. and Guedes Soares, C. (2014), “Distribution of nonlinear wave amplitude and heights from laboratory generated following and crossing bimodal seas”, Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, Vol. 14, pp. 1207-1222.
In agreement with the Benjamin-Feir mechanism, the high-frequency spectrum shows decrease of the magnitude and downshift of the peak with the distance, as well as lowering of the spectral tail. The results on the statistical distributions demonstrate that the wave crests and troughs are better fitted by second-order narrowband models near the wave generator while are increasingly better approximated by the third-order Gram-Charlier approximations away from it. However, this effect seems to be less pronounced in the following wave systems, when compared to crossing seas with identical initial spectral characteristics. Also, the larger intermodal distance results in reduced nonlinear effects. A way to demonstrate and assess the relevance of third-order effects due to free modes only is by excluding the bound-wave effects of second- and third-order which distort the surface profile making it vertically asymmetric. As a result, in some cases characterized by relatively large coefficient of kurtosis, the empirical distributions of wave crests, troughs and heights of the non-skewed profiles continue deviating from the linear predictions, thus corroborating the need of using higher-order models for the description of the data when free-wave interactions are relevant.
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