Publications

Cherneva, Z., Tayfun, M.A. e Guedes Soares, C. (2013), “Statistics of Waves with Different Steepness Simulated in a Wave Basin” , Ocean Engineering, Volume 60, pp. 186-192

Modulational instabilities induced by third-order nonlinear interactions among freely propagating waves can cause the statistics of various surface features to deviate significantly from the predictions based on the linear Gaussian and second-order models. This study analyzes deep-water waves with different initial steepness measured in a wave basin and characterized with such instabilities, and compares the statistics of wave heights, crest and trough amplitudes observed with a variety of theoretical approximations based on Gram–Charlier expansions. The results indicate that the theore- tical approximations describe the empirical distributions observed reasonably well, for the most part. Further comparisons also show that the zero-up- and zero-down crossing heights of the largest waves observed in the experimental series do not exceed Miche–Stokes type upper limits.

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