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Publications
Rusu, E., Gonçalves, M. and Guedes Soares, C. (2012), “Study of the Wave Transformation in the Central Part of the Portuguese Nearshore with High Resolution Models”, Maritime Engineering and Technology, Guedes Soares et al. (Eds),Taylor & Francis Group, London, pp. 525-531
An evaluation of the two state of the art high resolution coastal wave models FUNWAVE and REFDIF1, is carried out in the present work. The target area is a coastal sector located in the central part of the Portuguese continental nearshore, south of the city Figueira da Foz. The wave input for the two models is provided by an ADCP and transferred via a coarse REFDIF driver to three high resolution computational domains. Simulations with the models FUNWAVE and REFDIF1 were performed in parallel in these three areas for various wave and tide conditions. The results show in general a good agreement between the two models and the field data outside the surf zone. Inside the surf zone a calibration process is carried out for FUNWAVE and afterwards the results provided by the two models become significantly closer. The present study gives information concerning the performance of the two wave models evaluated in different forcing conditions and also about some specific features concerning the process of wave breaking in the Portuguese nearshore.
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