Probabilistic Methodology for Coastal Site Investigation Based on Stochastic Modelling of Wave and Current (WAVEMOD)

Duration: 01.01.1993-30.06.1996 (42 months)

Coordination: Instituto Superior Técnico

Partners: Delft University of Technology (The Netherlands), IFREMER (France), Laboratoire d’Hydraulique de France, (France), MARTEDEC (Greece), National Technical University of Athens (Greece), OCEANOR (Norway), Programa del Clima Maritimo (Spain) and SINTEF (Norway).

Funding Entity: EU - Programme MAST

The main objective of this project was the development of short-term and long-term stochastic models applicable to the conditions of coastal waters, and the establishing of the relationship between the deep-water stochastic models and the shallow water models. This project aimed also at improving wind-wave forecast models [5] and hydrodynamic models whose results were integrated with measured and with remote sensed data [6-7] so as to produce a large enough data base to validate and calibrate the stochastic models. To support the calibration of models two field campaigns were made at Figueira da Foz at Portugal and in Crete measuring waves at different water depth as well as currents in the later case. Developments were made in the modelling of long term time series of significant wave height with autoregressive models [9-12] as well as in the prediction of extreme values of significant wave data, both univariate and bivariate. The shape of the high frequency tail of wave spectra was also studied [16-17] as well as the influence of shallow water on its shape [18-19]. Methods of ewstimating the directional spectra were developed and were used to study the directionality function. Furthermore, a probabilistically based methodology for site studies was developed, by considering the uncertainty in the various types of available wave and current data as well as in the relations between deep and shallow waters. This general framework can be used as a guideline for engineering and site studies in coastal seas.

Project Team

Associated Publications