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Publicações
Cherneva, Z., Tayfun, M.A. and Guedes Soares, C. (2009), “Statistics of Nonlinear Waves Simulated in an Offshore Wave Basin”, Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 114, C08005, doi:10.1029/2009JC005332
Modulational instabilities induced by third-order nonlinear interactions among freely propagating waves can cause the statistics of various surface features to deviate significantly from the predictions based on the linear Gaussian and second-order models. This study analyzes deep-water waves simulated in a wave basin and characterized with such instabilities, and compares the statistics of the wave heights, crests and troughs amplitudes observed with a variety of theoretical approximations based on Gram-Charlier expansions. The results suggest that the distributions of the upper parameters indicate that the theoretical approximations describe the empirical distributions observed reasonably well, for the most part. Further comparisons also show that the heights and crests of the largest waves do not exceed Miche-Stokes type upper limits.
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