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Publicações
Rusu, E, Rusu, L. e Matulea, I. (2004), “Prediction of the Nearshore Wave Propagation with Spectral Models”, Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Marine Science and Technology (BlackSea´04), 7-9 Outubro, Varna, Bulgaria, Vol. I, pp. 142-150
The global changes in the climate, having as a result the continuously and unprecedented increase of the ocean level, are inducing also a new evolution in the nearshore morphodynamics. In relationship with these changes, assessing and predicting of the wave propagation and impact in the coastal environment, it is one of the most important factors in surveying the coastal response. On the other hand, motivated also by this new dynamics in the nearshore (as well as by the technological progress of the last decades), is getting more and more substance the idea of developing a global network for oceanographic forecast in the spirit and connected with the existent meteorological one. In the present paper are presented some results concerning the implementation of the spectral models for hindcasting and forecasting of the nearshore wave conditions on the Portuguese coast and on the other hand will be discussed the possibility of applying this experience to the Black Sea nearshore. The phase averaged models considered are WW3 for the generation area and SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) for the transformation area. Very often it is also useful to connect to these schemes high resolution phase computing models as REF/DIF. However in the case of the Black Sea, the SWAN model seems to be enough good either for the whole basin as well as for medium and high resolution areas. Consequently the implementation of WW3 could be avoided and a SWAN scheme three ways nested might be a good solution for designing an effective forecasting system. An original interface with graphical and numerical outputs was designed
using the Matlab environment. This is a tool useful both for the cases of pre and post processing.
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