Publicações

Léon, S.P., Pilar, P. e Guedes Soares, C. (2004), "On the Accuracy of Wave Models in a Coastal Zone", Actas da 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2004) - Coastal Engineering 2004, 19-24 Setembro 2004, World Scientific (Ed.), Vol. I, pp. 920-933, Lisboa, Portugal

The interest in wave prediction grew last years due to the practical need for knowledge of the state of the sea for different purposes like shipping and coastal engineering. Wave prediction is of a great importance for marine safety in coastal navigation and fishing activities, but it also has a considerable economic relevance for beach erosion, and coastal structures. It is also very important to provide the wave climatology close to the coast for fishing vessels and other coastal traffic as well as for the entrance of the main ports. Wave spectra evolution in finite water becomes rather more complex, requiring an improved knowledge about the physics for an adequate numerical simulation, which needs to be done by a shallow water model. WAMc4 is an established wave model that is being used at several institutions for operational forecast and for hindcasts. The WAM-pro code is based on the WAMc4 code, which was adapted for shallow waters and high spatial applications by Monbaliu et. al., (2000) and is appropriate for the wave predictions close to coast.

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