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Publicações
Rusu, E., Pilar, P. e Guedes Soares, C. (2008) , “Evaluation of the Wave Conditions in Madeira Archipelago with Spectral Models”, Ocean Engineering, Vol. 35, pp. 1357-1371
A wave prediction system was implemented and tested in Madeira Archipelago. It is based on two stateof-
the-art spectral phase averaging wave models, WAM and SWAN. Ocean-scale simulations, covering
almost the entire North Atlantic basin with WAM, provide the boundary conditions for the archipelago.
Three levels of SWAN simulations were successively connected to the generation area. For the first level
spherical coordinates were still maintained whereas, in order to account better for some coastal
processes, the simulations in the second and third levels were performed using the Cartesian
coordinates. For the last two computational levels a detailed spatial analysis was carried out. This was
focused on the effects of diffraction and triad nonlinear interactions emphasizing the influences induced
in the model results when increasing the spatial resolution. The first targets of the analysis were the
most energetic cases but, as a further step, wave patterns corresponding to average energetic conditions
were also discussed. Two buoys located south of Madeira Island were considered to validate the model
system for two winter periods (1997–1998 and 2000–2001) giving a total of about 8 months of
simulations. In terms of significant wave heights the system is able to provide accurate results while for
the mean periods and directions, the predictions still follow the main wave patterns although the
agreement is of lower quality. Comparisons with the results provided by a similar scheme in the
Portuguese continental nearshore have been also performed.
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