Publications

Rusu, E. and Guedes Soares, C. (2010), “Validation of two wave and Nearshore current models”, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 136, Issue 1, pp. 27-45

This paper deals with the validation of a 1D model system to represent the nearshore currents. For the validation, comparisons are made with the predictions of a 3D model and with measurements. The system evaluated is ISSM (the Interface for SWAN and Surf Models), which was developed as an attempt to maximize the combined properties of simplicity and reliability. As a reference, the widely known general prediction system for the nearshore circulation SHORECIRC was considered. This is a quasi-3D model that uses REFDIF as wave driver and combines a numerical solution for the depth-integrated 2D horizontal momentum balance equations with an analytical solution for the 3D current profiles. Three case studies were considered for the two model systems comparison, going from a more common beach that may be reduced to the 1D paradigm to other two environments that can be considered more nonconventional and where the 1-D beach paradigm is no longer valid. The first nonconventional environment has mild bottom contours, while the second is characterized by strong bathymetric irregularities. The comparisons between the results provided by the two model systems considered, as well as the comparisons with the in situ measurements performed, allow the conclusions that, under certain restrictions related especially to the angle between the direction of the wave advance and the normal to the shoreline, the 1D surf models can be used with confidence in various conventional coastal environments.

You can download this paper from: http://ascelibrary.org/wwo/resource/1/jwped5/v136/i1/p27_s1

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