Publications

Rusu, L., Bernardino, M. and Guedes Soares, C. (2010), “Wave Forecast at the Entrance of the Tagus Estuary”, Proceedings of the 30th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering (OMAE 2011), 19-24 June, Rotterdam, The Netherlands, ASME, New York, USA, paper OMAE2011-50214

This paper presents an extension of the wave forecasting system that is operational at CENTEC, the Centre for Marine Technology and Engineering, Lisbon, Portugal, which consists of including a new area that covers the coastal environment close to the port of Lisbon, namely the entrance to the Tagus estuary. The system is based on the wave models WAM (WAve prediction Model) and SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore), driven by the wind fields provided by the atmospheric models GFS (Global Forecast System) from NCEP (US National Centre for Environmental Prediction) and MM5 (Mesoscale Meteorological Model), respectively. The forecast products are updated daily for 4 days ahead. Graphical outputs of the wave parameters (fields and temporal series) are made available to the ports in a restricted internet domain. The performance of the wave forecasting system at the entrance of the Tagus estuary is evaluated by comparing the predictions of the wave parameters with ‘in situ’ measurements collected by a wave-rider type buoy located at the entrance of the Tagus estuary. The emphasis is put on the high energetic conditions, which are of major interest in relationship with the coastal navigation.

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